How to stitch: Backstitch and Whipped Backstitch

Thinking across all my stitching, backstitch has probably been one of my most used stitches over the years. If you’ve done any cross stitch, you’ve probably noticed that it’s regularly used to add details. Also, as backstitch is a very secure stitch, it’s my default stitch for hand sewing fabrics together. And of course I’ve used it in my crewel embroideries.

So I thought it was about time I wrote a stitch tutorial for backstitch!

I’ll also cover how it can be used as a base for a more embellished version.

Let’s get started!

How to stitch

To work a line of backstitch, start by bringing your needle and thread up a stitch length’s away from the start of your line. For crewelwork, I generally aim for my stitches to be 4-6mm long.

Complete your first stitch by taking your thread back down at the beginning of your line.

Photo of a threaded needle going down into fabric to create a stitch.

To start your second stitch, bring your thread back up a stitch length in front of your first stitch. So your thread is travelling the length of two stitches on the back.

To complete this stitch, take your thread back down into the same hole that your first stitch started.

Keep stitching in this way.

Photo showing a threaded needle going down at the end of the previous stitch to create a new stitch.

Photo of a completed line of backstitch in blue thread.

Whipped backstitch

A nice way to embellish backstitch is to ‘whip’ it.

I like to use a different colour thread when whipping backstitch. You could go for a different shade of your first colour, or a totally contrasting colour. It all depends on the look you want to create.

Bring your thread up at the start of your line of backstitch.

I’d recommend using a tapestry needle for your whipping stitches so that your needle doesn’t snag your previous stitches.

Weave your thread under your first backstitch.

Photo of a needle with yellow thread being weaved under the first stitch in a line of blue backstitch.

Continue weaving your thread under each stitch in turn, in the same direction (e.g. from the right to the left of each stitch), until you reach the end of your backstitch.

Photo showing the process of weaving a yellow thread through a line of blue backstitch.

To finish, take your thread back down at the end of your backstitch and secure.

Photo showing a threaded needle going down at the end of a line of backstitch.

Photo of a completed line of blue backstitch whipped with yellow thread.

Backstitch tips

As with all embroidery stitches, your work will have a more polished look if you can keep your stitch length consistent.

However, when stitching around tight curves, it usually helps to shorten your stitch length.

Personally, I think that whipped backstitch looks nicest if the backstitches are on the longer side.

You may have noticed that the slanting stitch creating by whipping backstitch looks similar to stem stitch. If you use my ‘follow the compass’ rule for keeping your stem stitch slant consistent, then you can also use it to ensure your whipped backstitch matches. In this case, with your stitching direction as North, you weave under each stitch from the East to the West.

Annotated photo showing how to whip backstitch so the slant angle is the same as stem stitch.

Whipping other stitches

The process of whipping can be used on other stitches too!

I’ve also used it on chain stitch. This creates a wider whipped stitch.

Top photo: whipped chain stitch. Bottom photo: whipped fly stitch.

You could try it out on pretty much any outline stitch and even some more decorative ones. For example, whipping the line part of fly stitch.

Backstitch in action

For these underwater vines, I used a dark and mid brown shade and a mid and light brown/yellow shade to add a bit of interest and subtle shading.

Photo of crewel embroidery vines, with arrows pointing to the two stitched in whipped backstitch.

Here’s an example of backstitch being used to add detail to a cross stitch design.

Top photo: cross stitched animal faces using backstitch for detail. Bottom photo: flower details added with backstitch.

If you’re interested in adding some embellishment to your clothes, I like using backstitch as it looks very similar to a machine stitch. Especially if you can keep your stitch length consistent!

Here are a couple of examples where I’ve used backstitch to add designs to jeans pockets. The stitching looks the same as the machine topstitching, but I found these shapes much easier to stitch by hand.

Top photo: jeans pocket with the two faces/vases optical illusion stitched. Bottom image: jeans pocket with Simba stitched.

Finally, since backstitch creates a neat and secure stitch, I’ll often use it to sew fabrics together if I’m hand stitching instead of using my machine. For example, I’d sewn some toys, where due to the small size, I’ve preferred to sew the seams by hand. It can also be a nice bit of relaxing stitching for in front of the TV or on a train journey!

Wrapping up

I hope you’ve found this stitch tutorial useful and that you’ve got some inspiration for different ways to use backstitch.

I’d love to hear what you think of this stitch and your favourite ways to use it!

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